Let’s Get Faded: The End Of Hyperpigmentation

Shantay, you stay. Hyperpigmentation, you go

Hyperpigmentation. Spotting. Scarring. If there’s one thing me and my melanin-rich girls know, it’s that the only thing more irritating than a stubborn zit is the ensuing dark spot that’s soon to follow.

And like an unwelcome couch-surfer that’s long overstayed their welcome, hyperpigmentation can seem truly impossible to get rid of. So you do what you can: perfect the art of the cover-up, sell your soul to high coverage foundations and concealers, and hope that there comes a day when that one magical little vial that’s actually going to deliver on all its promises of treating discoloration graces your vanity . . .

Well, we don’t know about you, but we are so over-sitting around and waiting on a miracle. Hyperpigmentation, you’re done for.

What Is Hyperpigmentation, Anyway?
Who told that zit it needed to leave a going-away present?

O.K, let’s slow down for a second: when we say hyperpigmentation, we’re usually referring to the frustrating dark spots or patches left behind in the wake of a breakout. But whether it's excess UVA/UVB exposure (yes, there is such a thing as too much fun in the sun), inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or acne, or even physical injury — including picking at your skin — all hyperpigmentation starts with melanin.

Melanin is produced by cells called melanocytes, which live in the outermost layer of our skin. Hyperpigmentation is what happens when these cells overproduce and/or irregularly distribute melanin, leaving you with discoloration and uneven skin tone.

Fun stuff.

Wait, There Are Different Types Of Hyperpigmentation?
Say it ain’t so.

1. Age spots: A common sign of skin aging, this form of hyperpigmentation is caused by overexposure to UV rays (there’s that fun in the sun we were talking about). You’re most likely to develop age spots where you get the most sun, like your face, neck, forearms, and hands.

2. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: This is the term for the discoloration that manifests after your skin experiences trauma — like acne, eczema or an injury of some sort.

3. Melasma: This is a form of hyperpigmentation that's more common in women and thought to be linked to hormonal imbalance. It is commonly triggered by the hormonal changes associated with pregnancy.

4. Freckles: Your freckles are genetic (and adorable), but they may become darker and more visible with UV exposure.

O.K, Now What?
Deep breath: hyperpigmentation is treatable.

When it comes to giving your PIH the what’s what, it may be a good idea to reach out to a dermatologist (even virtually!) if you’re unsure what the underlying cause may be or because you’re simply in need of a little professional assistance. Plus, if your discoloration seems especially keen on sticking around, it might take an in-office hyperpigmentation treatment to see results. But if you can do without calling
in the big guns . . .

Slather Yourself In Sunscreen
SPF 40+, Please.

Yes, you need to apply sunscreen even if it’s raining or cloudy outside. The sun doesn’t take a day off, and neither should you. But I — no ifs and or buts. Unless you were about to tell us you already applied sunscreen today, in which case, carry on and remember to re-apply every 2 hours. Skipping out on sunscreen is always bad news, but especially so while using retinoids and/or chemical exfoliants; that can actually make your skin even more susceptible to PIH and also make your current dark spots even worse.

Pick The Right Ingredients
That’s the good stuff.

• Kojic acid: While most acids work to exfoliate your dark spots away, kojic acid also works to prevent them by inhibiting the production of melanin in your skin. Get that 2-in-1 action.

• Niacinamide: This all-star ingredient is a form of vitamin B3 that aids in controlling sebum production (the difference between greased pan and radiantly dewy is very subjective) while also fading your dark spots.

• Vitamin C: An antioxidant that protects your skin against environmental aggressors that cause inflammation. It also helps to fade acne scars and dark spots while helping to smooth fine lines over time. It’s basically a do-it-all ingredient.